Perhaps you aren’t aware of this, but at the moment I don’t reside within the town itself. I actually live beyond its walls, amidst a landscape adorned with olive trees, lush crop fields, and vineyards, all just 200 meters from the beach.
One of my dearest autumn pastimes is taking leisurely strolls through Bolsena town, where I have the chance to make new acquaintances. You might be wondering why I prefer autumn for these excursions. Well, it’s because during the summer, I tend to stay away. Once the fall season arrives, I find myself yearning for the nostalgia of those picturesque streets.
Tourism Could be so Challenging if you Love Quietness
Why do I avoid the town in the summer, you might ask? The answer lies in the fact that during this season, a place designed to accommodate 2,000 residents suddenly finds itself inundated by up to 20,000 tourists.
Sometimes, especially in the peak of August, my beloved little town can become more chaotic than a bustling metropolis! Fortunately, this tumultuous period lasts for just two months each year, and we manage to navigate through it.
But as I mentioned, when fall season finally arrives, I find myself missing the town immensely, and my yearning to return becomes almost a desperate need.
Don’t get me wrong, I truly appreciate when tourists visit this place, especially the Americans and the British, as they show great respect for our town, its rules, and take good care of it. However, due to the nature of my work, I require the utmost silence to stay focused.
But today, it’s the day to return to my beloved “Corso” and savour the colours, the scents, and the sounds of the unhurried life during this time of the year and I’d like to invite you to join me for some pizza. Shall we go?
Porta Fiorentina: The Place Where Magic Begins
As I mentioned earlier, I live just outside the town’s walls, approximately 3 kilometres to the north of the historical centre. The first thing you can see when you arrive in Bolsena is Porta Fiorentina, the Renaissance door that faces the north of the town and used to be the entry point for those arriving from Tuscany.
When you cross the door, that’s when the magic begins because you are transported to another dimension where ancient wisdom and traditional values are alive and integrated into everyday life, even if people may not be fully aware of it. Living in an Italian little town is like living as if you were in the year 1,000, with the only difference being that as you walk its streets, you’ll spot some modern elements here and there.
I won’t describe every shop and everything you can find in the town, at least not today, as I’m in a hurry to eat my pizza. However, I’d like to introduce you to some of my favourite places to visit when I’m here.
Greengrocery
The very first shop you encounter when you enter the town through Porta Fiorentina is the greengrocery. It’s one of my favourite places, not only because it’s run by three friendly siblings (two sisters and a brother), but also because it offers the finest selection of local fruits and vegetables, allowing you to personally choose and pick what you desire.
Stepping into this shop feels like a journey back in time. It’s a cosy, small space, and the merchandise is nothing like what you’d find at a supermarket with its almost perfect aesthetic, vibrant colours, and symmetrical forms. No, quite the opposite! Here, you can find food in its natural state, without the makeup and other additives that big companies use to improve the appearance of our vegetables.
In the future, I’ll write a blog post about the greengrocery, and I’ll share some pictures with you.
Seamstress
Absolutely! We have a seamstress here! Where you can take your clothes for adjustments or even have the seamstress create something custom-made just for you. I haven’t personally frequented this place, in fact, I’ve never stepped into this shop. However, I find it quite curious that we have such a unique place in a town of 2,000 people.
Bakery
Continuing along the Corso, you’ll come across various other shops, such as a bar, women hairdresser and a barbershop, a real estate agency (there are quite a few around here), and more bars, one after the other.
At a certain point, you’ll encounter local artisans who work with materials like glass, wood, ceramics, and much more.
However, one of my favourite places is the bakery. The delightful fragrance floating from that place is simply enchanting! If you happen here in the early morning, you’ll notice that the aroma fills the entire street. Here, you can purchase handmade bread infused with local flavours, reminiscent of ancient recipes, as well as biscuits and, depending on the season, special goodies like Christmas or Easter sweets.
But my absolute favourite place is “Pizzeria da Flavio”
For Italians, and not only in little towns like mine but also in the cities, eating “pizza al taglio”, which means slices of pizza in contrast to an entire one, is an easy, affordable, and common way to have lunch or dinner, especially when you are in a hurry.
The advantage is that you can eat something while you are walking around or even driving your car because “pizza al taglio” is so easy to transport; it is wrapped in paper, and you don’t get dirty while you eat. Another advantage is the fact that you can customize it with whatever you want, like fresh vegetables, meat, or cheese. So, if you are smart enough to dress it with nutritious food, you can have a fast, complete, and healthy meal (nothing to do with McDonald’s or unhealthy options like that!).
A Warm Place to Enjoy and Socializing
But the thing I love the most is the fact that in a little town the advantages are doubled! First of all, you receive more personalized service; actually, the “pizzaiolo” knows my name, my job, and my tastes (like almost everybody here in any shop). When I arrive, he greets me with a warm smile and asks me how I am doing.
But not only that, because if, for example, on that day I have no money because I was in a hurry and I forgot my wallet, there is no problem. He knows me, and I can pay the next day.
Savour a Delicious Meal in the Slow-Living Way
He also knows that every Friday I order a pizza with seasonal vegetables by phone, and if for any reason I forget to call him to place my order, he prepares it anyway, so I can pick it up in the evening.
“Da Flavio” (like every small town’s “pizza al taglio” shops) offers a place where you can savor a delicious meal without the stress of a long wait. It’s a gathering spot for the community, where you can indulge in dishes crafted from local, fresh ingredients, elevating the quality and flavor of your lunch or dinner.
These combined elements create a truly delightful and cherished experience when you visit a local pizzeria. I’m grateful to live in this enchanting place and to have the opportunity to share the beauty of Italian culture and language with others.
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